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Court Dress For Men

By nature inoffensive, friendly and obliging, his presentation at St James’s had made him courteous.
Pride and Prejudice

As it had been for women, a strict standard governed what could be worn at Court when attending an audience with the King. This standard was often unaffected by prevailing fashion and changed little over the course of a monarch’s lifetime. The following suit, from the collection held at the Victoria & Albert represents the what was no doubt very much like the suit worn by Sir William Lucas upon his fateful introduction at St. James’s Court.

Full dress suits of this type (which is probably French, 1790s) were worn for ceremonial occasions. The silk embroidery on the suit, mainly in satin stitch, is considered to be among the finest in the collection, and its design probably dates from the 1780s.

Unfortunately, this scan does not show off the glorious floral embroidery on this dress suit. Even the buttons have flowers embroidered on them! Many representations of these formal dress suits are held by museums. The Victoria and Albert Museum owned twenty-four of them from 1770-1800 in 1984! Most formal suits like this are in dark colors, either solids or subtly patterned as seen in this suit.


By 1807, the waist of court dresses for women had moved up to the height common for dresses, but, since hoops were still required, it was much less attractive. Here a lace-trimmed overskirt covers a dress with bands of flowered garland and a deep lace trim around the bottom of the skirt. The male figure shows the typical formal court dress that varied little from the 1780s. The formal suits included matching coat and breeches in the same fabric, usually a dark color and sometimes patterned. Always these court suits would be heavily embroidered. This suit is embroidered on collar, cuffs and along the front opening. The sword would be worn for such a formal event as the Birth Day, the traditional closing ending event of the London season. The waistcoat here is lighter than the suit, but we are unable to see if it is embroidered or not. The hat is a style particularly easy to carry under the arm. Compare this to the formal suit of the 1790s owned by the Victoria and Albert museum. The words beneath the print read “Court Dresses for His Majesty’s Birth Day. Printed for J. B. Bell & Co.”

The description for this image, originally published in Le Beau Monde, or Literary and Fashionable Magazine, January, 1807, is as follows:


Court Dresses for Her Majesty’s Birthday

The return of the rigid season brings with it once more, to every loyal bosom, the happy occasion of doing honour to the birth-day of our gracious and amiable Queen. Fancy and taste have been long busy in making preparations, and the condescension of a noble lady has enabled us to anticipate some of the characteristics that are likely to distinguish the habiliments of the day. The design which she has done us the honour to communicate, brings the whole into a central point of consideration, and we have therefore only to describe it.

Fig. No. 1. FOR LADIES.–The hair dressed in natural curls round the face, with a coronet, bandeau, or other ornament in gold–feathers of every kind. The body, sleeves, and petticoat, of rich, full coloured satin or velvet: the draperies of gauze or tiffany spotted with gold embroidery; the trimmings and false sleeves of the same, edged with rich lace, and the cords and tassels that festoon the draperies, of gold. The bracelets round the sleeves, the zone and the binding of the petticoat to be of plate gold, we suppose in commemoration of the lately achieved conquest of South America. The petticoat is decorated with artificial wreaths of the white thorn made in relief.

Fig. No. 2. FOR GENTLEMEN.–Dark-green, or other dark colour, coat and small- cloaths of silk, velvet, or fine cloth, covered with a small spot somewhat lighter of the same kind of colour, edged with silver lace, and embroidered with any kind of wild flower of acknowledged British growth: waistcoat of white satin, embroidered in a very light pattern of gold thread. Silk stockings perfectly white.

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This text, along with the images, has been borrowed from Cathy Decker’s Regency Fashion Page. The text from the 1790 suit is from Natalie Rothstein’s Four Hundred Years of Fashion London: Victoria and Albert Museum, 1984.

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Court Gowns: Dressing the Part

She is unfortunately of a sickly constitution, which has prevented her making that progress in many accomplishments which she could not otherwise have failed of; as I am informed by the lady who superintended her education, and who still resides with them. But she is perfectly amiable, and often condescends to drive by my humble abode in her little phaeton and ponies.”

“Has she been presented? I do not remember her name among the ladies at court.”

“Her indifferent state of health unhappily prevents her being in town; and by that means, as I told Lady Catherine myself one day, has deprived the British court of its brightest ornament. Her ladyship seemed pleased with the idea, and you may imagine that I am happy on every occasion to offer those little delicate compliments which are always acceptable to ladies. I have more than once observed to Lady Catherine that her charming daughter seemed born to be a duchess, and that the most elevated rank, instead of giving her consequence, would be adorned by her. —
Pride and Prejudice


Miroir de la Mode, February 1804

This print is a rare example from the short-lived British magazine, edited by the famous modiste Madame Lanchester, that was published only from 1803 to 1804. Bits of silver paint are used to pick out details in the trim and the jewelry. Out of my collection of over 500 fashion prints, if I could only keep one print, this would be it.

When ladies (and gentlemen) appeared at Court on formal occasions they were required to wear Court Dress, which was a very formal, very specific type of garment that was not worn anywhere else. Rules of Court Dress were rigid and dictated by the current monarch or his Queen. During the Regency, those rules produced a type of female garment that appears perfectly ridiculous to modern eyes, but which was taken quite seriously by those who wore them and by the designers who made them.

The rules of Court directed that ladies should wear skirts with hoops and trains, and that white ostrich feathers be worn in the hair, attached to lappets which hung below the shoulders. These rules had been in place long before George III took the throne. In his predecessor’s day the skirts were enhanced with panniers that stood out very wide on either side, but leaving the front and back flat. The intent of such odd-looking dresses was to display a broad swath of beautifully embroidered fabric, some of which had pictorial or floral scenes that used the entire front of the skirt as a canvas. Side panniers had been replaced by normal round hoops by the time of George III. In the last decade of the 18th century, the fashion for wide skirts began to evolve into the slim, vertical line associated with Regency dress. Queen Charlotte, however, held firm on the rules of Court Dress, and ladies were forced to adapt those rules to the current style, which produced a very odd-looking garment with the high-waist under the bosom and a full hoped skirt.

Who wore these silly (to my eye) concoctions?

Wives and daughters of peers, members of parliament, or the landed gentry were allowed to be formally presented at Court on only three specific occasions: as a young woman making her debut in Society (she was later to be called a debutante), upon her marriage, and on the occasion of her husband having an honor conferred upon him. For daughters, the presentation at court marked them as suitable bridal candidates in the marriage market. For wives, it marked them as respectable members of the upper classes of Society and sometimes opened doors for them that had formerly been closed. The woman being presented was always sponsored by another woman who had already been presented. This was usually her mother or mother-in-law or another female relation. If she had no relative to present her, there were certain high-ranking ladies who would do so for a fee.

La Belle Assemblée, March 1806
“The Marchioness of Townshend in her full Court Dress as worn by her Ladyship on the Queen’s Birth Day 1806”

This print accompanies a biographical sketch of Lady Townshend, and is not referenced or described in the fashion commentary of the same issue.

The presentations took place at St. James’s Palace at events called Drawing Rooms, where the monarch and/or his Queen received those attending Court. Presentation Drawing Rooms were held two or three times a week during the Season. Based on letters and diaries of the time, it was so stressful an experience that it was regarded more as a duty than a pleasure. The young woman to be presented stood sometimes for hours (one never sat in the presence of the Queen) waiting for her name to be announced by the Lord Chamberlain. She then walked to where the Queen sat and made a deep curtsy — which had been practiced and practiced while wearing the hooped skirt. A few pleasantries were exchanged, the young woman answering any question the Queen put to her, but no more. When the Queen indicated she was dismissed, the young woman made one more deep curtsey, and then had to walk backwards out of the royal presence (one never turned one’s back on the Queen) all the while dealing with the obstacle of her train so as not to trip over it. Stressful indeed!

Other formal occasions requiring Court Dress were the Drawing Rooms held to commemorate the Queen’s birthday (January) and the King’s birthday (June). These were invitation-only events involving only the highest-ranking members of Society. Unlike the young women being presented at court for the first time, whose dresses were primarily white or pale pastel shades, the ladies of the nobility were allowed more freedom of color in their court costumes. Many of the magazines of the period listed all the important women who attended the Drawing Rooms and described what they wore. For example, in January 1809, the Lady’s Magazine reported that the Countess of Carlisle wore: “A most superb dress of ruby velvet and white satin; the draperies in every part trimmed with a rich imperial gold border, and a profusion of splendid gold tassels, rope, &c.; robe trimmed with point lace. Head-dress, ruby turban, jewels, and feathers.” Figure 2 shows a dress worn by the Marchioness of Townshend at the Queen’s Drawing Room in 1806, and Figure 3 shows what the Princess of Wales wore to the King’s Drawing Room in 1807.

La Belle Assemblée, February 1808
“A Lady of Quality in the Birth Day Court Dress January 18, 1808”

The Queen’s unyielding insistence that women attend court in unfashionable hoops continued even after the King no longer appeared in public, and Drawing Rooms were hosted by the Prince Regent. The ever astute Mrs. Bell (the shameless self-promoter who designed most of the dresses illustrated in La Belle Assemblée) at last came to the rescue with a more flexible hoop in 1817 (see Figure 8), but it must still have been something of an aggravation to deal with such an unwiedy and heavy costume while standing, never sitting, at court. Such out-of-date dress had long been discarded at the French court, where no hoops were worn, but where long trains, white plumes, and court lappets echoed the English court style. (See Figures 5, 6, and 7.) After the Bourbons reclaimed the French throne upon Napoleon’s defeat at Waterloo in 1815, fashion magazines in England began to include prints of French court dress. It is tempting to believe they did so to encourage the Prince Regent to adopt a more current style of court dress by showing the more fashionably attired ladies of the French court. (See Figures 6 and 7. As you can see, the prints were often exact copies of fashion prints that had previously appeared in the popular French publication, Le Journal des Dames et Des Modes.)

Journal des Dames et des Modes 1814 (month unknown)
Costume Parisien, “Costume de présentation”

The Prince, however, did not relax the rules until he came to the throne as George IV in 1820. Finally, ladies could abandon their hoops. (Ironically, they came back into fashion within another 15 years.) The rules regarding white plumes in the hair still held fast (and did so well into the 20th century), and in looking at the fashion prints of the early 1820s (see Figures 9, 10, and 11), it appears that the extravagance of skirt that was given up with the hoop was transferred to the head. Plumes became ridiculously large and numerous. Figure 9, which shows one of the first non-hooped Court Dresses from 1820, also exemplifies the new extravagance for plumes. Fortunately, ostrich feathers weigh very little, else the lady would surely have been unable to lift her head.

If it is any consolation to the ladies, the rules of gentlemen’s court dress were much more strict, and became even more so during Victoria’s reign.

Left: Journal des Dames et des Modes 1816 (month unknown) Costume Parisien “Coeffure et Robe de Cour”

Right: La Belle Assemblée, September 1816 “Parisian Court Dress”

La Belle Assemblée, which copied the print from the French weekly Journal des Dames et des Modes, described the dress as follows:

“Petticoat and train of white satin, superbly ornamented round the border and sides with flowers and couloured foil. Body of white satin or silver tissue. Short full sleeves of white satin, richly ornamented wth point lace, and surmounted by imperial wings formed of a triple row of the same material. Toque of white satin, encircled round the forehead by a bandeau of pearls or diamonds. The hair in curls, à-la-Ninon; superb plume of full white ostrich feathers, and court lappets of fine lace. Ear-rings and necklace of diamonds. White kid shoes with very small rosettes; white kid gloves, ornamented at the top with a narrow fluted quilling of blond.”

Left: Journal des Dames et des Modes 1816 (month unknown) Costume Parisien “Coeffure et Robe de Cour”

 

Right: La Belle Assemblée April 1817 “French Court Costume “

La Belle Assemblée, which copied the print from the French weekly Journal des Dames et des Modes, described the dress as follows:
“White satin petticoat, bordered with a rich work in silver lama of grapes and vine leaves. Body of silver tissue, with short sleeves or crape, ornamented with pearls. Falling tucker of crape, three rows, to correspond with the sleeves. Mantuan train of satin of a fine tyrian purple, pink, or ethereal blue, embroidered round the border in the same manner as the petticoat. The hair elevated on the summit of the head, and encircled with a bandeau of diamonds. A full plume of white ostrich feathers and marabou feathers intermingled. Court lappets of find Mechlin lace, edged with small pearls; diamond necklace and ear-rings.”

La Belle Assemblée, April 1817
“Court Dress with the New Hoop”

Described in the magazine as follows:
“Full suit dress of pink satin, finished round the border with fine blond interspersed with pearls, to which are added rich cordons and embossments of white silk, in an embroidery of a novel kind, mingled with artificial flowers. Superb drapery of embroidered net, trimmed with blond of an unrivalled pattern and workmanship, and drawn up with full wreaths of artificial flowers. Train of pink satin, elegantly finished with silver lama; short sleeves of pink satin and blond, caught up to the shoulder with full blown roses. Head-dress feathers and diamonds. Diamond necklace and ear-rings. White satin shoes; and white crape fan, the outward sticks studded and fastened with diamonds.

“N.B The attention of the nobility and gentry is particularly appealed to on the newly invented Court hoop, which enables a lady to sit comfortably in a sedan, or other carriage, while the hoop is worn, with the same ease as any other garment; and by this unique and unrivalled novelty the splendor and dignity of Court costume is not only preserved, but considerably heightened.”

La Belle Assemblée, July 1820
“Court Dress of Lady Worsley Holmes worn at the first Drawing Room of George IV”

Described in the magazine as follows:
“A beautiful drawing was taken of this superb and elegant dress last month, but our Engraver disappointed us of then offering it to the public; in addition to a faithful representation of it in our Print of Fashion, the following description is offered to our fair readers. It consists of a rich white satin slip, with a fancy petticoat over it, embroidered in pearls, wheat-ears, blue chenille rosettes, and wreaths of the same. The petticoat finished at the border with a rouleau of blue gros-de-Naples, wreathed over with pearls. A robe train of blue gros-de-Naples lined throughout with white satin, trimmed all round with a rich French blond, and rouleau of gros-de-Naples, entwined with pearls, to correspond with the border of the petticoat. The body of blue gros-de-Naples, tastefully ornamented with pearls and French blond. Headdress is a magnificent plume of ostrich feathers, bandeau of diamonds, and blond court lappets.”

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Candice Hern is the author of several Regency Romance novels and an avid collector of period fashion accessories. Her newest book, Lady Be Bad, part of her popular Merry Widows series, will be released in August. Visit her website for a sneak peak at this book as well as selections from her other novels. Larger images of the gowns seen here can also befound at www.candicehern.com.

 

 

For more information on court dress, see these sources:

 

  • Nigel Arch and Joanna Marschner, Court Dress Collection, Kensington Palace, 1984.
  • Sharon Laudermilk and Teresa L. Hamlin, The Regency Companion, Garland Publiching, Inc., 1989.
  • Philip Mansel, Dressed to Rule, Yale University Press, 2005.
  • Kay Standiland, In Royal Fashion, Museum of London, 1997.

For more information on fashion prints, see these sources:

  • Alison Adburgham, Women in Print: Writing Women and Women’s Magazine from the Restoration to the Accession of Victoria, George Allen and Unwin Ltd., 1972.
  • Irene Dancyger, A World of Women: An Illustrated Hisotry of Women’s Magazines 1700-1970, Gill and Macmillan, 1978.
  • Madeleine Ginsburg, An Introduction to Fashion Illustration, Victoria & Albert Museum, 1980.
  • Vyvyan Holland, Hand Coloured Fashion Plates 1770-1899, Batsford, 1955.
  • Doris Langley Moore, Fashion Through Fashion Plates 1771-1970, Clarkson N. Potter, Inc., 1971.
  • Sacheverell Sitwell and Doris Langley Moore, Gallery of Fashion 1790-1822, Batsford, 1949.
  • Cynthia L. White, Women’s Magazines 1693-1968, Michael Joseph, 1970.
  • Alison Adburgham, Women in Print: Writing Women and Women’s Magazine from the Restoration to the Accession of Victoria, George Allen and Unwin Ltd., 1972.
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Court Dresses for ‘the Birth-day’ of the King

court dresses

In July, 1807, the ‘Court’ was invited to celebrate King George III’s Birthday– one of the last he would entertain as reigning monarch. The following description of the Court Dresses worn, will dazzle, while offering up some very familiar names, including the Princess of Wales, the Duchess of York and even a Miss Cavendish! Enjoy this treat for the imagination.

1807belle1

Fashions For July, 1807:
Explanation of the Prints of Fashion.

English Costume

No. 1.— Her Royal Highness The Princess of Wales in Her Court Dress, As
Worn On The Birth-day.

This dress, for taste and magnificence, stood unrivalled amidst the
splendour and elegance displayed on the Birth-Day of our justly revered
Sovereign; and we consider ourselves fortunate in having it in our power to
procure a representation of it for our fair correspondents.

The body and ground of the drapery was formed of a rich silver and lilac
tissue; with a most superb border, composed of emeralds, topazes, and
amethysts, to represent the vine-leaf and grapes. The train and petticoat of
silver tissue; bordered all round like the drapery ; and each terminated
with a most brilliant silver fringe of a strikingly novel formation. Rich
silver laurel and arrow on the left side, to loop up the train. Head-dress
of diamonds and amethysts, tastefully disposed; with high plume of ostrich
feathers. Neck-dress, the winged ruff, a la Mary Queen of Scots; sleeve
ornaments to correspond. Ameythyst necklace and earrings, with
Maltese cross; diamond armlets and bracelets. White satin shoes, with rich
silver rosettes. French kid gloves, above the elbow. Fan of Imperial crape,
studded with amethysts and topazes.

1807belle2

Parisian Fashions

No. 2.- Taken From a Group Of Conversation Figures at the Frescati, In
Paris.

Ladies Dress.—A white Italian crape robe, over a white satin slip,
ornamented round the bottom and drapery with a border of shells, painted to
nature. Plain scolloped bosom cut very low, and made to sit close to the
form. Waved sleeves, easily full, formed of alternate stripes of crape and
pink satin. Hair, bound in smooth bands, confined on the forehead, and
ornamented behind with wreaths of wild roses. Earrings and necklace of
pearls. Shoes, pink satin, trimmed with silver. White kid gloves, rucked.

General Observations on the Fashions for the Season

With a complete List qf Ladies in their Court Dresses, as worn on the
Birth-Day.

As there is little alteration in the general style of personal decoration
since our last communication, and as our elegant and extensive collection of
Court Dresses will occupy much space, and we doubt not, prove highly
acceptable to our readers, we shall simply notice a few particular articles,
which strike us as most novel and graceful, and hasten to give our
delineations of Court splendour.

The most distinguishable style of hat is a complete gipsy, with the lowest
possible crown; 2nd some of our elegant females wear an entire round flat
chip, tied across the crown with a coloured patent-net handkerchief,
embroidered in a border of natural flowers. The small French bonnet, and
cottage poke, are also in general request. The former are composed of
coloured figured sarsnet; the latter of muslin, or leno, lined with coloured
Persian; and each we usually worn with the promenade tippet, of the same
materials.

For a morning, the fugitive coat, of cambric, or muslin, with a deep collar,
pointed in front, and finished with the acorn tassel, is considered simple
and elegant. With these last mentioned articles, the gipsy hat, of satin
straw, with the magic or bee-hive crown, is most appropriate and becoming;
but no flowers can be consistently admitted in the morning costume. The
round French robe, the Algerine vest, and the mantle wrap, are each amidst
the last offerings of taste and fashion ; and are formed of undrest crape,
Angola silk, or muslin. Dresses and robes are often seen in plain coloured
muslins, ornamented with Vandyke lace; and with them is worn the Anne Bullen
cap, which is considered the most novel and simple article of the kind that
has been introduced for a length of time. The head-dress continues in the
antique and Grecian style; and the hair is parted on the forehead a-la-Cleopatra, or Madona.

The backs of dresses are a little advanced in fashionable circles, since our
last information ; and the bosom is usually made to sit close to the form.
In full-dress, the sleeve is shorter than ever; but in the morning (and
frequently in the evening dress) the long sleeve is adopted universally.


Walking dresses are now made rather longer than we have witnessed for some time; so that, in walking, they just offer a graceful occupation for the hand. Trains again form a part of the evening costume, except for dancing, when they are invariably made short, and formed in the Arcadian style.

Vandyke and shell-scollop trimmings, in lace or work, ornament almost every article of fashionable attire; and pointed drapery, tastefully disposed, has entirely exploded almost every other. The Flemish spensers, with flowing scarfs, are now become too general to find a place amidst a fashionable selection. The spenser is, however, so convenient and generally becoming an article, that we still continue our recommendation of it to those females who wish to adopt the intermediate style. Scarfs are less seen this summer than we ever remember them; but the Etruscan mantle, and the order of the gipsy and Spanish cloak, are still conspicuous amidst the gay and fashionable throng. Flowers, in full dress, are at this time the prevailing ornaments, both as decorations for the head, and trimmings for robes. Wreaths of the oak leaf, of the hop blossom, wild roses, | honey-suckle, pea-blossom, horse chesnut, rocklily, etc. etc. will be found distinguishable ornaments on the Birth-day.

The following correct list of Court Dresses, will at ouce exhibit the
standard for full dress; as well as the most prevailing colours forlhe
season. We give them en train.

Her Majesty.—A lilac and silver tissue petticoat, trimmed with draperies of point Brussels lace, with point lace of the same description, flowered round the pocket holes; the front of the draperies superbly ornamented with large diamond rosettes, from which were suspended diamond bows and tassels. The under drapery fancifully ornamented with diamonds in diagonal stripes. The mantle to correspond with the drapery.

Her Royal Highness the Princess of Wales.—The drapery and body of rich silver and lilac tissue most magnificently embroidered with emeralds, topaz and amethyst stones, to form vine leaves and grapes, entwined with wreaths of diamonds in stars and shells; at the bottom of the drapery a very rich silver fringe of quite a new pattern; the train and petticoat of silver tissue, with a border all round to correspond with that on the drapery; also a rich silver fringe all round the train and petticoat, with rich silver laurel to loop up the drapery and pocket-holes: the head-dress of diamonds and ostrich feathers. (Plate)

Her Royal Highness the Princess Charlotte of Wales.—A pink and sliver slip, with a beautiful Brussels lace frock to wear over it, and a pink and silver girdle.

Her Royal Highness the Princess Augusta.—Yellow crape petticoat richly embroidered with silver; a sash across with a border of honey-suckles, and rich pointed embroidered draperies. Body and train to correspond.

Her Royal Highness the Princess Elizabeth.—A superb dress of apricot and silver tissue. The right side of the dress a magnificent drapery, composed of an Etruscan net of large silver beads, tastefully divided at distances by a thick bullion of beads, chains of beads in dead silver relieved with bright bullion, elegantly ornamented with many wreaths of laurel in silver foil, and bouquets of chesnut blossoms, with the kernel bursting from the shell, formed the tout ensemble of this strikingly novel and elegant dress, which, for taste and effect, surpassed any dress of the kind we have observed. The bottom finished with a wreath of laurel in raised foil and beads. The whole looped up with large silver cords and tassels. Robe of apricot and silver tissue, trimmed with broad Vandyke silver fringe, point lace and diamonds.
Her Royal Highness Princess Mary.—Wore a magnificent dress of brown crape, embroidered with silver and pink roses over a petticoat of royal purple; oval draperies, richly spangled all over, and terminated with marking borders of dead and bright foil in vandykes, with roses beautifully interspersed lightly in the embroidery, the whole completed with elegant cords and tassels. Robe of brown, purple and silver tissue, trimmed with broad vandyke fringe, point lace, and diamonds.

Her Royal Highness the Princess Sophia.—A pea green petticoat, over which an elegant scarf drapery of the same colour, most magnificently embroidered in silver pines and branches; on the right side a wing of scale-embroidery of uncommon richness, and on the left a richly spangled drapery, most tastefully hung round the bottom of the petticoat. The robe of green and silver tissue, most elegantly trimmed with silver, and looped up on the sleeves with silver chains and acorns. Head-dress, an elegant plume of green and white feathers, with a profusion of diamonds.

Her Royal Highness Princess Amelia.—Petticoat of white crape richly spangled, and border a mosaic pattern. Draperies of purple Albany net with silver acorns; pockets formed with rich sprigs of laurel; train of handsomely embroidered purple tissue; on the left, a beautiful formed drapery of shell work, ornamented with Parisian trimming. The whole in appearance truly elegant and becoming to her Royal Highness, and we think it one of the handsomest dresses at Court.

Her Royal Highness the Duchess of York.—A white sarsnet petticoat, richly embroidered with an Etruscan border in silver draperies, a silver tissue drawn up and ornamented with a wreath of silver hoops, which had a very novel and elegant appearance. Train, silver tissue trimmed round with the wreaths of hop leaves; Brussels lace sleeves, with diamond armlets and broaches. Head- dress, diamonds and feathers.

Her Royal Highness Princess Sophia of Gloucester—wore a splendid dress of white and silver, superbly embroidered, and was much admired for taste and effect, the whole finished with a massy border at bottom. Her Royal Highness wore a robe of lilac and silver tissue, with rich embroidered sleeves and fronts.

Princess Castelcicala.—An elegant dress of lavender-coloured crape, fluted in divisions, trimmed with broad black lace, and ornamented with wreaths of fancy flowers, same colour as the dress and bows of ribband; robe of black lace trimmed all round with flowers.

Duchess of Northumberland.—A white crape petticoat, richly spangled in silver, and ornamented with silver grapes; train to correspond.

The Duchess of Rutland was elegantly dressed in a beautiful petticoat and train of straw coloured crape, with rich silver vine-leaves, and ropes of silver arrows.

Duchess of Dorset.—A rich embroidered silver crape, ornamented with lilac crape and silver tassels; train lilac crape.

Duchess of Leeds.—A brown dress, very richly embroidered with gold.

Duchess of Montrose.—A yellow crape petticoat, with a rich painted Grecian border; train yellow crape.

Duchess of Athol.—A white satin petticoat, with a lace drapery of Reine Marguerite flowers, appliqued on white satin; lace train.

Duchess of Buccleugh.—A very rich dress of brown and silver, superbly embroidered; brown train, elegantly ornamented with silver; head-dress brown and silver, with a profusion of diamonds.

Marchioness Dowager of Bath.—A petticoat of violet crape, embroidered in rich silver draperies, with a silver foil border, pocket holes richly trimmed, silver cords and tassels; body and train to correspond.

Countess of Cardigan.—A most beautiful rainbow green crape petticoat, with rich silver foil border; the drapery superbly spangled with rich embroidered border, ornamented with silver mellon beads, and silver cords and tassels; the body and train to correspond.

Countess of Malmsbury – (and the two Ladies Harris, her daughters) each simple elegant dresses of pale green crape, decorated with flowers; head-dress to correspond.

Countess of Uxbridge— A sky-blue crape petticoat, richly grounded with Imperial silver rings, a silver Vandyke border, with stripes of silver lama, representing wreaths of oak and lilac, tastefully worked on the petticoat; blue crape body and train.

Countess of Grosvenor.— A white crape petticoat grounded with silver Imperial rings, with draperies richly bordered with silver embroidered wheat ears and silver lama; the petticoat embroidered in waves, with an elegant foil border, Vandyke pocket-holes, with silver cords and tassels; body and train to correspond.

Countess of St. Vincent.— A white crape petticoat, grounded in silver spangles, and richly embroidered border, pocket-holes trimmed with silver, and silver cords and tassels; train to correspond.

Countess of Galloway.— A white crape petticoat, with rich silver foil border, the drapery richly embroidered with Trafalgar net border; body, sleeves, and train, richly ornamented with silver embroidered shell-work.

Countess of Oxford.— A white satin petticoat, with lace draperies, trimmed with pink French beads and wreaths of apple blossom; train to correspond; head- dress, feathers and diamonds.

Countess St. Martin De Front.— A dress of pale blue crape in draperies, ornamented with borders of net work, in beads and bands of the same, with handsome beads and tassels; robe pale blue sarsnet, trimmed with vandykes and beads, point lace, &c.

Countess of Kingston.— A white crape petticoat, most tastefully embroidered with silver wheat-ears; also embroidered drapery, drawn up with a very rich silver cord and tassels; the body and train of white satin, richly embroidered with silver, and trimmed with point lace.

Countess of Mendip.— A white crape petticoat, with a rich Vandyke silver foil border, edged with the real silver Lama; under this border was a silver chain, linked with the Prince’s plume; on the right side a Grecian drapery with a double Vandyke border, with sprigs of lilies of the valley; this drapery was looped up with a rich silver cord and tassels; the left drapery beautifully embroidered with silver roses, with the same border, and edged with a Trafalgar fringe; pocket-holes fancifully trimmed with wreaths of silver roses; train of silver tissue, trimmed to correspond.

Countess of Chesterfield.— A very rich dress of blue crape, embroidered with wreaths of rose leaves in the real silver; Oriental lame crescents, ornamented with large silver cords and tassels; train of blue crape, trimmed with silver; head-dress a plume of blue ostrich feathers and diamonds.

Countess of Dartmouth.—A white satin petticoat, with Mazarine crape draperies, tastefully embroidered in silver, fastened with silver cord and tassels; head-dress feathers and diamonds.

Viscountess Castlereagh.—A magnificent dress of apple-green crape, richly embroidered in silver, the whole spangled with silver, and trimmed with large silver zephyr and Vandyke fringe, the draperies tied up with rich tassels and cord; train to correspond; the body and sleeves fully trimmed with point; head-dress, a profusion of diamonds, and nine ostrich feathers.

Viscountess Allen.—A dress of green spider gauze, ornamented with wreaths of oak-leaves; head-dress, feathers and diamonds.

Lady Young.—A dress of white crape, richly embroidered with gold, gold cords and tassels; robe of white crape, ornamented with gold; the head-dress was of white feathers and diamonds.

Lady C. Harbold.—A Brussels dress, lined with topaz colour.

Lady Arden.—A white crape petticoat and drapery, very beautifully embroidered with silver, and interlined with pea-green sarsnet; body and train of pea green sarsnet, ornamented with silver and point lace.

Lady Moseley.—A splendid dress of white and silver, superbly ornamented and embroidered; the form of the draperies were in the Grecian style, loped up with a rich cord and tassels, train to correspond, richly ornamented with diamonds; head-dress, beautiful plumes of ostrich feathers, magnificent diamonds, and point lace.

Dowager Lady Bagot.—A superb dress of lilac, richly embroidered in silver.

Right Hon. Lady Mary Lennox.—A petticoat of lavender blue silk, ornamented with superb lace draperies; the train to correspond; head-dress diamonds and feathers.

Right Hon. Lady Elizabeth Spencer.—A most beautiful lavender silk train and petticoat, richly ornamented with draperies of superb point lace, looped up with beads and bead tassels; the bottom of the petticoat trimmed with point lace to correspond; head-dress of ostrich feathers and beads.

Lady M. Walpole.—A very beautiful dress; the petticoat elegantly embroidered with silver sprigs, and tastefully ornamented with rock lily; the drapery looped up with flowers; the body and train of white sarsnet, ornamented with silver and point lace.

Lady Lavington.—White dress, very richly embroidered with silver, in beautiful flowers; lilac train, elegantly embroidered, and ornamented with silver.

Lady Eleanor Butler.—Dress of pale pink crape, richly trimmed and wreaths and bunches of full blown roses and buds; head-dress, a profusion of diamonds and ostrich feathers.

Lady Perth.—A white and gold trimming, and rich gold tissue train.

Lady Crofton.—A purple gauze petticoat, ornamented with lilac flowers and cord; train to correspond.

Lady Hume.—A rich gold embroidered petticoat, on lavender blue sarsnet, train of the same.

Lady Banks.—An elegant blue and silver applique petticoat; train blue sarsnet.

Lady C. Duncombe.—A white and gold petticoat with draperies of purple crape; train to match.

Four Ladies Percy.—White satin petticoats, with blue crape draperies, and a rich applique border of blue and silver; the draperies tastefully drawn up with chains of massy silver; train blue crape; head-dress, a plume of blue and white feathers.

Lady E. Murray.—A pink crape petticoat, with rich net applique drapery; pink crape train.

Lady C. Wynn Belasyse.—A blue crape petticoat, elegantly ornamented with white fancy flowers; train blue crape.

Lady Bagot.—A most superb and elegant white dress, richly embroidered with silver in wreaths of oak, with a profusion of diamonds and feathers.

Lady Fluyder.—A white crape petticoat and draperies, with oak border in silver; train, lilac tissue; head-dress, feathers and diamonds.

Lady Imhoff.—A silver gauze petticoat, richly trimmed; lilac train; head-dress, feathers and diamonds.

Lady Metcalfe.—A pearl coloured sarsnet petticoat, painted with yellow roses, and apple blossoms, the draperies tied up with liburnum, and finished in a most tasteful manner, with steel beads and tassels; robe, head-dress, and feathers to correspond, with diamond bandeau and sprig, and feathers fastened with diamonds.

Lady Radstock.—A petticoat of lace, over a lavender silk; the train of the same colour, forming a drapery richly ornamented with beads.

Lady Bruce.—A petticoat of white crape, richly beaded, with a mantle or train of lilac sarsnet, trimmed with very rich point, suspended from the shoulders, falling in folds from the back, and fastened at the side in a festoon, with beads; head-dress, feathers and diamonds.

Lady Chambers.—A rich dress of white crape, embossed with gold and edged with rich borders, looped up with bunches of purple flowers.

Lady Sophia Lumley.—A dress of white crape, embroidered with silver, with bunches of pink frosted flowers.

Lady Rowley.—A white spider gauze dress, richly trimmed with silver, in rich Vandyke beads.

The Ladies Greville.—White and silver dresses, trimmed with pink flowers.

&n bsp; Hon. Lady J. Cavendish.—Petticoat of white crape, ornamented with fine lace drapery, fastened up with branches of white lilac, terminating on the left side with a Circassian sash, trimmed to correspond; train of white crape; head-dress feathers and pearls.

Lady Georgiana Morpeth.—Petticoat of white crape, tastefully ornamented with wreaths of ivy; draperies trimmed with blond; body and train to correspond; head- dress, feathers and ivy.

Dowager Lady Essex.—A gold and white taffety petticoat and train, with crape draperies, ornamented with gold fringe and green wreaths.

Lady Courtenay.—A rich white crape dress, beautifully ornamented with a shower of gold and wreaths of roses.

Lady Louisa Adderly.—A very rich dress of amber crape, with borders of embossed silver, à-la-Grec pattern. Head-dress, a bandeau of diamonds, and a single ostrich feather of straw colour.

Lady Birch.—A white sarsnet robe or petticoat, richly embroidered in silver. Head-dress to correspond.

Lady Mary Parker.—A dove-coloured petticoat uncommonly richly embroidered with silver in elegant chains across; the border serpentine pattern, a fall of embroidered points on the side; robe and head-dress to correspond.

Lady A. Clavering.—A white petticoat, trimmed round the bottom with china pearls, and yellow; the drapery of yellow crape, with very rich border, embroidered in china pearls, antique Mosaic pattern, with scarf of yellow sarsnet, profusely ornamented with pearl; the robe of yellow elegantly trimmed with pearls, and beautiful Brussels lace. The head ornamented with yellow and white feathers and diamonds.

Lady Francis Pratt.—A primrose sarsnet petticoat, covered with rich Brussels lace draperies, the bottom of the petticoat elegantly ornamented.

Lady Molyneux.—Body and train of lilac crape, ornamented with blond lace and bugles; white crape petticoat, with a rich embroidered border of bugles, and satin drapery of the same, drawn up with tassels, &c. &c.

Lady De Dunstanville.—United elegance and simplicity in her dress, which consisted of a white crape petticoat, ornamented with a beautiful border, composed of rich point lace, inter-mixed with blue crape, which produced an effect at once pleasing and elegant; head-dress, diamonds and feathers.

Lady Beauchamp.—A white crape petticoat elegantly ornamented with rich bandeaus of beads, and a chain of rich figured satin; her Ladyship’s head dress consisted of white feathers and diamonds most tastefully arranged.

Lady Wills.—We have seldom witnessed any thing more splendid that her Ladyship’s dress: she wore a petticoat of white Imperial net bordered with silver, the draperies were of lilac crape, ornamented with a most superb silver Vandyke, and fastened with large silver tassels, train of Imperial net, Vandyke border of silver to correspond with the train; head-dress, a profusion of beautiful diamonds.

Lady Gardner.—A petticoat of brown crape richly embroidered with gold, and festooned with large gold cord and tassels; draperies also of brown crape beautifully spangled with gold; her Ladyship’s petticoat looked very elegant.

Lady Rendlesham.—A petticoat of green crape richly spangled, and drapery to correspond, fastened with gold cords and tassels; her ladyship looked extremely well.

Lady Milnes.—Elegant white crape petticoat, ornamented with rich blond lace, and satin train of lilac sarsnet, ornamented with silver.

The Hon. Mrs. Drummond—White crape petticoat, tastefully embroidered with silver leaves; at the bottom of the petticoat a beautiful wreath border, embroidered with silver; the drapery of primrose crape, ornamented with silver and pointed lace.

The Hon. Mrs. Cornwall.—Petticoat of primrose crape, most beautifully and richly embroidered with silver draperies of the same in a mosaic pattern; ornamented with silver Parisian trimming, and confined tastefully with cord and tassels.

The Hon. Mrs. George Herbert.—A magnificent silver robe and coat, entirely covered with a shower of spangles, the draperies tied up with very large zephyr and cords, and finished with a superb silver fringe. Head-dress a beautiful pearl wreath, and seven ostrich feathers.

Hon. Mrs. Percy, presented on her marriage, was most appropriately dressed in an elegantly simple white crape dress, trimmed with daisies and liburnums.

Mrs. C. Long.—A yellow crape petticoat and drapery, with Mosaic border, superbly embroidered in silver; train yellow crape, with silver.

Mrs. Vernon Graham.—A superb petticoat of pale yellow crape, elegantly embroidered with a deep silver border, draperies of ditto richly grounded with spangles, and borders to correspond, finished with large silver rope and tassels; body and train of pale yellow, richly embroidered with silver, and finished in summer-point. Head-dress, yellow feathers and diamonds.

Mrs. Fisher.—A white and silver dress, with a lilac robe.

Mrs. Huskisson.—A yellow crape petticoat, with a painted Etruscan border; train to correspond.

The Hon. Miss Roche.—Lilac and silver.

Mrs. Gambier.—Blue crape petticoat, with elegant draperies of crape and beads, ornamented with cords and tassels of beads; blue crape train, beautifully trimmed to correspond.

Mrs. Champnets.—White crape body and train, trimmed with lace; petticoat of the same, drapery fastened up with large bunches of wall-flowers.

Mrs. A. Stanhope.—A dress of blue crape, richly embroidered in silver; head- dress, plume of feathers and diamonds.

Mrs. Cruchly.—A splendid dress of white, richly embroidered in silver, the draperies edged with wreaths of matted silver shells, looped up with chains of matted silver; head-dress, feathers and diamonds.

Mrs. Lawrell.—A dress of green satin and gauze, richly trimmed with chains and fringe of green bugles, ornamented with bunches of flowers.

Mrs. O’Brien.—A very handsome dress of white satin and crape, richly embroidered with silver spangles, the drapery fastened up with silver rope and arrows; head-dress, feathers and diamonds.

Hon. Miss S. Coleman.—Rich white satin petticoat, with bunches of fine ostrich feathers fringe round the bottom, white crape mantle, draperies edged with the same fringe, and fastened up with ropes and tassels of gold beads; train ornamented the same.

The Hon. Miss Townshend.—Yellow and silver dress, the draperies formed in antique borders, and ornamented with silver tassels; yellow crape train, embroidered with silver.
The Hon. Miss Wilmot appeared in a very elegant dress of white crape and satin.
The Hon. Miss M. Elphinstone.—A petticoat of white crape, trimmed round the bottom with Turkish gold, and draperies of Turkish crape, richly ornamented with gold cord and tassels; train of yellow crape.

The Hon. Miss Crofton and Miss A. Crofton.—White sarsnet petticoats, with rich lace draperies ornamented with beads and white roses; trains white crape trimmed with roses.

The Hon. Miss Brudenell.-Yellow crape petticoat and draperies, trimmed with broad fringe and tassels; yellow crape train.

The Hon. Miss Monson.—A blue sarsnet petticoat, with lace draperies; train to correspond; head-dress, feathers and silver ornaments.

The Hon. Miss Shore.—A dress of white crape, edged with sprigs of embossed silver, and ornamented with bunches of flowers.

The Hon. Miss Bassett.—A dress of pale green crape and silver, draperies edged with borders of embossed silver, in Vandyke; head-dress, feathers and diamonds.

The Hon. Miss Allen.—A handsome dress of pink spider gauze, ornamented with wreaths of frosted flowers.

The Hon. Misses Cust.—Lace dresses, lined with blue.

Three Hon. Misses Irby.—Dresses of prim-rose crape, embroidered with steel bugles, and ornamented with beads and bows of ribbon; robes of primrose crape, trimmed to correspond with the dress.

Hon. Miss Drummond.—A superb rich silver gauze petticoat, ornamented with wreaths of grapes and rich lace; train lavender blue crape.

Miss Garth—Yellow crape dress, tastefully ornamented with silver.

Mrs. Every.—A white crape petticoat, richly embroidered with wreaths of silver grapes and vine-leaves; an elegant drapery covered with bunches of grapes, in dead and bright foil, the effect of which was beautiful and novel; round the bottom a wreath of silver grapes; this drapery terminated with a sash embroidered to correspond, and fastened with superb cord and tassels; train elegantly trimmed with silver and pearls. The head-dress, plume of ostrich feathers, magnificent pearls, and lace point.

Mrs. Macleod.—A dress of white crape, trimmed with satin ribbon.

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